Lusiana, January 2007
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Revision as of 16:26, 11 January 2007
Although I read the threads on the forum on a regular basis, I very rarely add to the forum debates. This is mainly because I think the island experience and the online experience are very different. Most people who have visited the island (I being one of them) have a very positive view of the project and what tribewanted have achieved so far, yet when I read the online posts I get increasingly frustrated with all the negativity there is about the project.
So I thought as a tribe member who has spent two months on the island and not actually worked for tribewanted as a chief or in any other role, I should share my experiences with you of the island.
When you get picked up in Labasa, one of the tribewanted team will take you to a shop to buy a sulu (a sarong type thing) and some Kava to present to Tui Mali or his brother Poisa when you arrive on the island. Within your first few days you will do your sevu sevu which is a ceremony in which you will present your Kava to Tui Mali and thank him for letting you stay on the island. In return he will say some Fijian prayers and then begin the Kava ceremony. There are lots of complex rules involved with this ceremony but Ben or Dan will fill you in on these before you start!
The boat ride from Labasa to Vorovoro takes about half an hour. Arriving on the island is an amazing experience. If you arrive in daylight, you are lucky enough to see the beachfront in all its glory with the Grand Bure poking out above the palm trees and the blue skies overhead. Arriving at sunset is awesome too, the sun sets to the right of the beachfront and casts a glow over the palms and sands. Even arriving in the rain is a blessing as the Fijians thank you graciously for bringing them luck (in the form of rain) to the island!
Although this all sounds idyllic, be prepared as the island is very rugged. I personally think this is a big part of the islands charm but you can draw your own conclusions. The sand is quite rough and if you want to take a trek around the island be prepared to walk over broken bark, shells and stones. A good pair of reef shoes always worked for me but most of the time I went barefoot as your feet get hardened to it quite quickly. It takes around two hours to walk around the island. Or you could do the 4 peak challenge which Ben and Dan have set up which involves running up all the peaks as quick as possible!
When you arrive you will need to chose where you want to stay. The options at the moment are a hammock, a tent or setting up a mozzy net and roll matt in the Bure. I stayed in a tent which worked for me as I didn’t fancy any big spiders crawling over me during the night! I believe Stu is working on some more accommodation plans at the moment so there should be more options open to you.
The days on Vorovoro are pretty much what you make of them. The only structure is the kitchen bell which rings every time there is food, which is a lot of the time!!! Breakfast is a 7.30am and is usually porridge, fruit and cake or pancakes. Morning tea is at 10.30am and we usually have cakes/pancakes. Lunch is at 12.30pm and is usually made up of either tuna sandwiches, a noodle dish, noodle and veg soup or curry. Afternoon tea is at 3.30pm and involves more cake! Dinner is at 6.30pm which could be fish, curry, chow mein etc. So you get fed pretty well here! The two Fijian cooks, Va and Francis are fantastic at cooking and welcome any help from tribies.
There are boats going into Labasa a few morning a week so you have the opportunity to return to the mainland if you wish. This is 10 dollars return which is very cheap and covers the boat fuel.
Tribewanted also organise trips to the school every Friday morning which I highly recommend. It is a fantastic experience to visit the children who sing to you in assembly (they have incredible voices) and when you present them with the books and sports equipments they are so grateful! We then get to play sports with them for the rest of the morning or teach lessons if you prefer. Be prepared to have lots of energy though as they really tire you out!!!
What you do with the rest of your time on V2 is entirely up to you. If you want to go fishing, Dan will happily organise a trip for you with Poisa. Again, I really recommend this as it is amazing what huge fish you can catch out there with no bait!
There is also snorkeling equipment and there is a great bit of coral down the end of the beach which is definitely worth a look. (if you have any snorkeling equipment you would like to donate then definitely bring it as they could always do with more)
If you are more into the construction side of things then the chief will usually have a list of things that can be worked on. Also, you are more than free to create your own things for the island. (I have just finished painting some signs for the island).
Basically, if there is anything you want to do, just ask tribewanted and they will be more than happy to organise it for you. Don’t expect the days to be constructed by activities as it is not a holiday resort and it is really up to you and your fellow tribies what you make of it. (for example, we decided to play island baseball and Chris from Kentucky made all the bats from bamboo and used breadfruit as the balls!)
In the evening it is very difficult to see without a torch unless there is a full moon so definitely bring one! We usually have a campfire and play a few games of cards. If anyone can play on the island guitar they are always welcome to! Pub quiz’s have also become a regular thing in the Bure, good for when it's raining.
For any special occasion, birthdays etc. tribewanted organise a cake and tend to think up a few other ideas like fireworks on the beach and crab races. All the tribe members usually chip in for beer and special food (like steak for the bbq) which they get on one of their runs to Labasa.
The greatest thing about the island is the people there. The Fijian village at the end of the beach is made up of Poisa’s (Tui Mali’s brother) family which includes his wife Francis (who cooks in the kitchen every other week) his daughter Rachelli (who manages the kitchen and has a wicked laugh!) and there younger daughter Annaseine. Familiar faces will also be Kessa who is Rachellis friend, Tavita who looks after the garden, Va who also cooks in the kitchen and the little boys Ratu and Mana who are absolutely sweet but complete rat bags!! The boat drivers Apenizer and Jonny are also a lot of fun.
There are so many other Fijians that come and go but you will get to know a lot of them while you are there. I would highly recommend going down to the village and spend some time weaving mats with the women, they are such gossips! I would also recommend you take trips to the other villages to meet the other wonderful people of Mali. Just ask tribewanted and they will organise a trip for you for 6 dollars return. One tip though, women must wear tops that cover their shoulders and sulus. Men also have to wear sulus.
Sorry this post has been so long! I really hope it gives you more of an idea of what island life is like. I absolutely loved it there, I stayed for one month, then went to New Zealand and decided to come back for another month for xmas and new year as I loved it so much!!! I feel like it is my second home now.
Once you get to the island you will realise what a fantastic network Ben has created with the internet café, the taxi company, the local hotel, the local wood mill, and the Mali traders. This is not to mention what a fantastic relationship tribewanted has built up with the Mali community. They now consider us to be a big part of their community and invite us to all there important ceremonies.
The financial side of things didn’t appear to be a problem to me at all while I was out there and I also believe this is not anyones business other than tribewanted's. It is a business after all and with any other company you would not expect them to share their financial stats with you. So I would recommend everyone stops speculating and just be content that tribewanted will be the first to let you know if there finances are going to effect your membership.
And one final point on the BBC documentary. Shine will only film you if you want to be filmed, they will not put pressure on you to do so unless you want to. Also, if you get asked a question you dont want to answer then just tell them you dont want to and they will be fine with it. I get quite shy when it comes to cameras etc. but im glad i got filmed in the end as it will be a really good way to remember my stay on vorovoro. I have seen the first cut of the first episode and it is not exploitive at all, it is purely an observational look at island life. The guys at shine are fantastic people and I trust them completely as i know Ben and the team do. So have faith in Bens judgements.
My final word is get yourself to the island as soon as possible and don’t give up on the project!!!
Lusiana x
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