McClung, John Henry
From Lane Co Oregon
RECOLLECTIONS OF A TRIP UP THE McKENZIE RIVER IN THE FALL OF 1860
by John H. McClung
Early in August, 1860, seven inhabitants of Eugene decided to make a trip up the McKenzie to the Three Sisters, never having been in close proximity of the snow capped mountain.
For the benefit of old settlers I append the names of the party as follows: A.S. Patterson, A.J. Welch, Dr. A. Renfrew, Joel Ware, C.H. Moses, Joseph Stevenson and myself. The outfit consisted of seven riding horses and two pack animals.
This provision was made necessary for the fact that no wagon road extended beyond the John Latta place made above where Walterville is situated, known [today] as the Robert Millican place. After some delay in getting our effects together we made a start and the first day went to J. [Jeremiah] M. Dick's [along Camp Creek Road] place to get a horse for Dr. Renfrew to ride. Instead of a horse he provided an old mare with a colt at her side, this being the gentlest animal he had as the Doctor was not used to riding and must have a gentle mount.
Our next camping place was the river near where Leaburg [probably Vida] is now located. During the day we passed through a heavy forest consisting principally of Douglas Fir, suitable for lumbering purposes. At the present time this accessible timber has been cut and floated down the river to mills in the valley.
The next day we only traveled three miles [from Vida] to Rock House [located at the eastern end of Ben and Kay Dorris State Park]. This being an ideal camping place and the fishing so good we decided to stop here a day. Rock House takes its name from a large boulder which projects over the trail with an opening in the lower side large enough for several persons to sleep comfortably and in front plenty of room for a campfire. Blackberries were plentiful in shady places and we soon got enough to have some nice pies which our cook, Mr. A.S. Patterson, made, which added much to our menu. Our fruit which we brought with us consisted principally of dried apples and peaches. When starting out Mr. Patterson desired to be made cook and we all acquiesced, knowing how poorly we were fitted for that responsible position and we made no mistake for he could make many appetizing dishes we had not thought of and besides he was genial and pleasant at all times. This left six of us to get wood and water, look after the horses, make the beds and to fish. Making the beds was a small matter for we only had blankets and slept in the open, usually rolling up a pair of blankets under a tree when possible, using a root for a pillow or if no root was convenient a riding saddle for a pillow. During the day a black bear came smelling along the waters edge [across the river]. Mr. Stevenson who had the only rifle in the party took a shot at him and he fell on the bank and struggled a while then clambered up the bank into the bushes. The river is very swift here and the only means of crossing was by building a raft which would have been difficult to manage so we gave up trying to capture him.
Coming from Gate Creek [Vida] we had our first experience with yellow jackets. Their nests were near the trail and they would light on the horses in great numbers. By the time the Doctor came along they were furious and covered the mare and colt and she would go bucking through the brush and over the logs. The doctor always rode on the mare, thus his silk hat which he always wore, would disappear and next his wig. He would then call for help and the party stopped and went to his assistance and got him back into the trail again. Dr. Renfrew was uncle to Auntie Frizzell [Melvina Frissell of the Log Cabin Inn at McKenzie Bridge].
The next day we camped on what was afterwards known as the [James] Wycoff place, more recently the Cook place, which was quite a popular resort for fishing and hunting. Our next camp ground was the mouth of Elk Creek where we found an island made by the creek and the river which afforded a fine camping place with plenty of grass for our horses. Here we remained two days to allow Mr. Moses and Dr. Renfrew to prospect for gold in that vicinity, On the first day they reported small particles of gold found along the river at the mouth of Blue River, but above Blue River no indications.
The following day they continued their explorations going up Blue River where the prospects improved and thought gold in paying quantities would be found later. Dr. Renfrew was especially enthusiastic and he spent several seasons thereafter helping to develop the mines on Gold Hill where a number of quartz ledges have been discovered [the Blue River Mining District] and finally one winter when the snow was very deep [actually in early August of 1876] on Gold Hill the Doctor passed away [Renfrew Grave, next to Renfrew Spring, was named after him]. It being impossible to bring his body to the valley, the miners buried his body where he had spent so much time and energy in development of what he believed would bring great riches.
The day following we moved camp just above the mouth of the south fork of the McKenzie [probably near Squaw Camp where the South Fork Road now joins the McKenzie Highway]. Here we on the mountain side found bunch grass for our horses and decided to try and keep on the north side of the river as we had been told a hot spring [Belknap Springs] had been found [apparently in 1859] a few miles above the big prairie [McKenzie Bridge]. After going a few miles we came to where a mountain jetted out into the river [Crib Point below the community of Rainbow] and it was impossible to get around or over it on account of the logs and underbrush. This necessitated either going back to the Indian crossing [Squaw Camp] or trying to cross where we were. We finally concluded to ford where we were and finding a riffle went down to the river bank. No one being willing to venture in I finally agreed to take the lead having a horse used to the mountains and a good swimmer. Taking all my clothing off, except my underclothing, I tied them to the horn of the saddle and started in. All went fine for fifteen or twenty feet when my horse plunged into a deep hole which took me to the armpits and my horse was swimming. I kept my head, however, and struck for the opposite shore where my horse landed me safe and sound. The others, seeing my difficulty, went further down the stream and succeeded in crossing except one of our pack animals which stumbled over a big boulder and got his load pretty badly soaked. After getting across the river we went to a small prairie where we unpacked and camped for the day to dry the provisions and my clothing.
The next day we reached the big prairie [McKenzie Bridge] but just before making this place we heard much shooting to the south of us and could not account for it, but when we reached the prairie we found it full of Indian ponies and the squaws drying meat; and the shooting we heard was the Indians hunting. When we reached this camp an old Indian came out and handed us a paper which said "These are good Indians" signed by the Agent of Warm Springs [Indian Reservation], so we knew we were safe. The Indians were campers and were drying their meat on the bank where the Log Cabin Hotel now stands. Just before reaching the prairie I caught a fine red side [rainbow] trout about 18 inches long. One squaw came to me and wanted the trout and I made her understand I would trade it for elk meat. She brought out a large piece and we made a trade. We had it for supper that night, but the odor was anything but appetizing. However, we managed to eat most of it as it was the first fresh meat we had eaten on the trip. I have often wondered how we caught so many fish without grasshoppers or grampus, and think we must have used artificial flies instead. It was no trouble to catch them and we often had on hand more than we could use. After leaving the prairie [McKenzie Bridge] we went about six miles to the crossing of Lost Creek. Here we found a large log across the stream party [partly] submerged in the water. We walked the log leading our horses beside it. This log was afterwards used as a support for a wagon bridge and was used many years for that purpose. However, two years ago a new bridge was constructed further up stream and the bridge abandoned. About a mile from this crossing we should have found the hot spring [Belknap] we were looking for, but unfortunately failed to see it on account of brush obstructing our vision. Above this point a couple of miles the McKenzie River comes from the north and takes a westerly course, which indicated that this river rises at Mt. Jefferson instead of the Three Sisters, as many suppose. At this point we leave the McKenzie and go easterly up a canyon with a small stream of water known now as Scott Creek [after a party lead by Felix Scott, Jr., in the summer of 1862 made the first successful crossing of the Cascades via the McKenzie with nine freight wagons and 900 head of cattle]. The trail was much of the way in the bed of the stream and over very rough boulders. Following this stream a couple of miles we turned south and started up a very steep mountain [later known to the Scott Party as Big Hill]. The Indian pones which had traveled down this mountain side had ploughed out the trail two or three feet in depth. It was so steep we could only lead our horses and walk beside the trail. At the top we came into a beautiful prairie with no name, but afterwards known as Finger Board. In this we camped as the grass was good and we found strawberries of small size, but good flavor. We found the altitude had greatly increased and it required all our bedding to keep comfortable. From Blue River to this point we had passed through a wonderful forest, principally of Douglas Fir. This timber lies mostly in the Cascade [Range] forest reserve [established on September 23, 1893], and it is doubtful if it will be utilized for many years to come, and from this camp it is thought to be 10 miles to the foot of the glacier which we hoped to make tomorrow. We took an early start and made what is now known as Collier Glacier in the early afternoon. We camped in the woods with no feed for our horses and the flies and mosquitoes were so bad we had hard work to keep them from running away. As a last resort we tied them to trees in camp and at eight or nine o'clock it became so cold the mosquitoes and flies retired in good order and we had a good night's rest. At breakfast five of our party decided to return to Finger Board [Prairie] where the horses could have grass and no annoyance from flies. To this Mr. Moses and myself agreed if they would take our horses with them, we would make what observation we could and return to Finger Board in the evening. To this they agreed. After camp had broken we went on to the glacier which was a great field of ice cut in various directions by crevasses from one to four feet in width and from 50 to 60 feet in depth with water rushing through them with great force. This glacier started from the north side of the Middle Sister and ran northerly and is about one mile in width. The east edge pressing hard against the North Sister which was almost perpendicular on that side. The west edge had thrown up a moraine in many places fifty feet high. This moraine consisted of lava and ash. In order to determine whether the glacier was in motion it was only necessary to stand a few minutes beside the moraine and hear the debris and lava fall on the ice below, and it was thus possible to determine the movement of the glacier.
We did not attempt to scale the Sister peak, first for want of time and second, we did not consider to attempt it, without a guide, advisable. Since that I have been on this glacier five times and always with the attendance and advice of a guide, who carried a rope 60 feet long to extricate anyone who might accidently fall into a crevass; and I would advise any one contemplating crossing the glacier to take this precaution. In the distant past there have been great convulsions of nature in this region in evidence of which great flows of lava extend north and west from this place, the one to the west being the older going to Lost Creek Canyon. This flow is of a reddish cast and much disintegrated. On the upper portion some stunted trees are growing while further down a heavy growth of green timber crowns its surface. The flow to the north is more recent and is of a dark, almost black, color and destitute of vegetation and extends as far as the eye can reach. After making these observations, we decided to return to camp at Finger Board. The timber on the summit is rather small and misshapen from the heavy falls of snow which fall in the winter; also little underbrush, so one can ride a horse almost anywhere. We saw a number of lakes without visible outlets. They are merely depressions filled with snow in winter and dry up in the summer. These lakes so far as we could observe were destitute of fish. We continued to camp, arriving about dusk where we found a warm supper awaiting us. The next day we moved down the river some four miles below the big prairies, not caring to camp with Indians again, the odor of the camp not being attractive. Our nest camp was the mouth of Elk Creek, where we had camped on our way up to prospect for gold. Here we caught a splendid lot of trout and after eating all we could for supper and breakfast had sixteen large fish left. In the morning, when leaving, finding no good place for them in our packs we left them on a log for King Fisher and Fish Hawks [osprey] to devour. The next day we reached Gate Creek. At breakfast Dr. Renfrew and A.J. Welsh decided to go to Eugene as they were the only two in the party having wives to receive them and the remaining five took two days in reaching home. At the time this trip was taken I kept a diary, but it disappeared years ago, so I have written this entirely from memory and probably have omitted many things which might be interesting to old pioneers. It may be well to state here that I am the only remaining member of this party, the others having passed away years ago. I have lived to see the McKenzie Valley settled from Walterville to Belknap Springs and all land suitable for settlement occupied. The upper portion is now in the Cascade [Range] forest reserve which will probably prevent its further settlement at least for many years to come. This is probably the end of the story but I cannot refrain from adding some happenings of a later date, and I have said nothing of the Foley Springs for the reason that they were not discovered for several years afterwards when a trapper and hunter [William Hanley and William Vick] found them. They soon became the property of Dr. [Abraham] Foley of Eugene and they still retain his name. These, with the Belknap Springs, were improved about the same time, soon became popular for their medicinal qualities, being especially efficacious for rheumatism, kidney and stomach troubles. These with the excellent fishing afforded by this stream will continues to make this section a great resort.
NOTES ON THE McCLUNG PARTY
Gale Burwell (1969) and Gerald Williams (1989)
The following are short, biographical sketches of most members of the McClung Party of 1860:
John Henry McClung- McClung was born in Ohio in 1837 and came to Oregon in 1856 after crossing the Isthmus of Panama. He purchased 160 acres of land west of Eugene, which he farmed until 1859 when he and an uncle established the first drug store in Eugene. He later sold the store and became a surveyor. In 1883 he bought the old Grange Store in Eugene, which they changed the name to McClung and Johnson. Interested in local affairs, he served as Mayor of Eugene, County Surveyor, County Councilman, and State Representative from Lane County for two terms. He was also a founder of the Oregon Central Military Wagon Road Company, which constructed a wagon road from Eugene to Idaho via the Willamette River route over the Cascades.
Andrew J. Welch- Welch was born in Pennsylvania around 1830. After he came to Oregon, he was a merchant in Eugene. He became the Treasurer of Lane County from 1858 to 1860. He later died in La Grande in 1864.
C.H. Moses and Joseph Stevenson- Both men were apparently not well known, as little information is available about these gentlemen. However, Moses was born in New Hampshire around 1826. The 1860 census recorded him living at the residence, probably the St. Charles Hotel, of Alexander and Catherine Renfrew. None of the censuses list a Joseph Stevenson as living in Lane County.
