Basics

From Antivist

Contents 1 Starting From Store Vegetables 2 Plant "Teas" 3 Sowing 4 Rooting 5 Cultivation 6 Mulching 7 Irrigation 8 Planting Zones 9 Weeds 10 Pruning

Starting From Store Vegetables

• Roots also grow well indoors. Cut off a healthy- looking "finger" from a ginger root and plant it in a fairly large pot. Keep it moist but not wet in a sunny place. That one ginger root will multiply by up to eightfold. Replant one of the fingers and continue growing and regrowing for years.
• Garlic also grows well, but it needs cold temperatures to set the plant. Plant a single clove, let it grow awhile, then give it a "winter" in your refrigerator or unheated attic. Bring it out after a month or so, and let it continue growing.

Plant "Teas"

• Another "egg" tip is never to throw away the water that eggs have been boiled in. This water, although not suitable for humans to drink, is full of minerals. Allow it to cool completely and then feed your houseplants with it. I inherited a few rather spindly specimens and, after a couple of months, noticed a marked improvement in their growth rate. Two small spider plants actually produced about six plantlets each and I was able to get another three (free) plants.

Sowing

Sowings should be made at four different times. This is because of the effects of frost and because seasons vary, some being early, others late in opening. For the latter season, the time between the early sowings should be increased in an early spring and made about the time that the earliest trees, such as silver maple open their buds.

To take advantage of the cool fall weather, a second crop of cool-season vegetables may be grown.

Fall garden vegetables do not thrive in warm weather and too early planting will stunt some kinds and cause others to become coarse, woody, or pithy and unfit for use.

Rooting

Willow Tea

Used for rooting transplants or cuttings. Infuse leaves from a willow tree in water as if you were making an herbal tea for yourself. Once cooled, water the plants that you wish to root with this mixture.

Cultivation

The function of cultivation with vegetables is to conserve moisture by eliminating weeds, to close up cracks and provide a loose, rough surface which will absorb rainfall and prevent runoff. Deep cultivation destroys many roots, reduces the yield of most vegetables and is unnecesary. Shallow surface cultivation is recommended for all vegetables, especially in un-irrigated soils and in dry seasons.

Mulching

Mulch is an application of manure, or any other loose material such as leaves spread upon the soil surface to protect the roots of newly planted trees, shrubs, tender plants. Today, it is extended to include earth kept loose by surface tillage to check evaporation.

You can use buckwheat hulls, shredded corn stover, chopped straw, or granulated peat moss. For mulching trees, and berry plants, coarser material may be used - marsh hay, straw, leaves, and corn stalks.

Also used is black paper spread upon the ground between or through which young plants may be grown. It sheds water into the soil, conserves water in the soil by checking evaporation, increases germination, greatly reduce or even eliminate weedings and cultivation, increase soil temperature, hasten maturity, increase yields, and produce larger high quality, and cleaner crops.

Paper should not be used on low value crops. It usually eliminates weeds in the covered area, and thus conserves the moisture and fertility they would use. It also cuts down the cost of cultivation.

Mulching gardens with straw or other litter such as hay or manure is a practical way to increase yields and produce vegetables of the best quality. The benefits are greatest with long-season crops and in dry years. Though straw mulches have increased the yields of nearly all vegetables, their use is not recommended with early short-season crops such as leaf lettuce, peas, spinach, seeded onions, cauliflower, and early cabbage. With root crops such as carrots, beets, and parsnips their use does not appear advantageous and with transplanted onions is of doubtful value. The difficulties of applying straw more than offset the advantage which most of these crops might gain. Straw mulching has been found desirable with all long season crops except sweet corn. Straw should not be applied until the plants are well established. A mulch of 2" to 4" is adequate. Deeper is unnecessary and undesirable.

Between 10 and 15 tons of straw are needed for mulching an acre, or about 500 pounds foro 2,000 square feet.

At the end of the season, straw mulches should be removed and burned because of the unfavorable effect upon the soil when such a large amount of dry organic matter is plowed under. This isi most serious with un-irrigated or sandy soils.

With potatoes, the straw mulch should be applied before the plants come through the soil. With other crops, such as tomatoes, eggplants, and other transplanted vegetables, before transplanting or after the plants are established, preferable at the latter time.

Irrigation

Irrigation will be found desirable at some time in practically every season and often in many seasons. Except for hastening seed germination in a dry spring, irrigation is seldom needed before July and not after August.

Needless or excessive irrigation early in the life of the plants might cause the development of shallow root systems. However, vegetables should be kept growing steadily. Knobby, growth-cracked, hollow, rough-shaped, double and otherwise undesirable vegetables are produced when growth is uneven, especially when a period of abundant moisture follos one of prolonged drouth.

One inch of water, in one rain, or from irrigation should maintain vigorous growth of most vegetables for five to seven days during hot weather, and 10 to 15 days in cooler weather.

Smaller amounts or larger amounts of water at one time are less desirable, because the soil will be poorly aerated for a time and the loss from rotting, blight, etc. will be increased.

Some form of overhead irrigation is applicable to every conceivable condition. It may be either stationary or portable, hand operated of self-operating, laid on or preferably raised above the surface to suit local conditions. Its first cost in any case is not much greater than an equivalent of hose and nozzles but it will last almost indefinitely, whereas hose usually must be replaced in two or three years.

The nozzle throws a stream 1/32" in diameter and the stream of water breaks fall about 40' away with no wind.

To irrigate vegetables and berries the best way is to place straight lines of pipe 50' to 70' or 80' apart depending upon the pressure and with nozzles at 4' intervals. They may be laid on the ground but will work better if raised.

When placed on the ground, they are easy to step over, when 6' high, are less likely than tall ones to be shifted by winds, more convenient and easily removed and replaced for plowing and digging.

For small gardens, one line may be made to serve by having it in readily portable sections. Each line may be connected with a hydrant by hose or have its permanant supply pipe with a gate valve and a turning union to control the water distribution. For convenience, however, a water motor is far better than a handle because the whole area will be sure to get an even distribution or water.

Overhead irrigation in some form has the great advantage over all other styles in its applicability to every type of soil, in every elevation, every size of garden or field. As the water is evenly distributed in minute drops it sinks slowly in the soil without puddling or baking and neither seeds nor plants are injured. Also the gentle shoers cleanse foliage and encourage healthful, vigorous development.

High temperature (90 degrees or above) which usually accompany summer droughts deplete the supply of soil moisture and increase the water requirements of plants.

The chief sources of water for irrigation are ponds, reservoirs, artesian wells and municipal water supplies. Shallow rooted crops, such as radishes and onions, usually require more frequent applications of water than do tomatoes or carrots.

Light and frequent watering is inadvisable; applications of less than 1/4" is considered enough for seed beds and young vegetables and from 1/2" to 1" for maturing crops.

As soon as the irrigation season ends the machinery should be overhauled, the pipes thoroughly drained before winter, and repairs made when necessary. Before starting in spring the pipes should be thoroughly flushed out to get rid of any loose rust particles. Repairs and overhauling should not cost more than ten dollars annually for a system of one to four or five acres. If properly handled, the engine and the pump should last for 12 to 15 years and the piping still longer.

The initial outlay for equipment, exclusive of motor and pump is estimated at $400. The equipment can be depreciated for tax purposes. The item of repairs is practically nil.

Temporary wilting such as affects plants on hot days, is not necessarily a symptom of moisture deficiency. Plants will recover from such wilting if sufficient water is in the soil. But if they remain flaccid until early morning. They indicate permanent wilting, so water should be applied promptly for if the wilting is allowed to continue the quality and succulence of the crop is likely to be seriously impaired and the yield greatly reduced.

If porous hose is preferred, the supply pipe is located at the higher end of the field and a pressure of 15 to 20 pounds to the square inch maintained in the porous lines. Old fire hose can serve as temporary water supply. Hose may run up hill. A better distribution may be secured by having it run down. Lengths of 600' have worked well. Especially when heavy weight canvas is used near the source and lighter at the distal and when the current is up grade and the reverse when it is down.

Hose may last up to three years, longer if treated with a solution of one gallon asphalt paint. 1/2 pint of kerosene and gasoline thoroughly stirred before applying either with a brush or by soaking and running through a clothes wringer to squeeze out the excess. It must be dried for 24 hours at least before using.

In use the hose is merely laid between the crop rows the water turned on until enough has been applied, then moved to the next place. Soil conditions and methods of tillage will decide the width of effective distribution.

Measurement

Most gardeners have heard the rule of thumb: gardens need one inch of water each week. Some plants, of course, need more or less. Gardeners should measure rainfall and keep track of the amounts on a calendar.

Simple funnel gauges can be purchased at most garden centers. It’s best to have a record of rainfall in your own garden rather than relying on figures recorded at the nearest meteorological station, since the amount of rain can vary greatly over relatively small distances. For the average garden a good deep watering (1 to 2 inches of water) applied once or twice a week is all that's needed and none if rainfall is abundant.

Runoff

Rain either seeps into the ground, where it helps plants to grow and replenishes groundwater, or it becomes runoff. The results depend on many factors, including:

• Rate - if a lot of rain falls in a short time, more water will run off the surface of the ground.
• Topography - water runs off hills and down gullies but gathers in low areas.
• Soil - sandy soil absorbs water more quickly but does not retain water well. Clay soil sheds water initially but retains it for a longer time after it has been absorbed.
• Vegetation - plant growth on hills slows the speed at which the water flows downhill, so more water is absorbed and less runoff is created. Vegetation also reduces soil erosion.
• Urbanization – asphalt and concrete cannot absorb rainfall, so much more water becomes runoff.

Planting Zones

USDA planting zones are based on average minimum winter low temperatures determined by historical weather data. There are also heat zones which help determine how far south plants can be grown. Vegetables and annuals are planted by average frost dates, which are also mapped. The following link offers more information:

   * USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Planting zones are the easiest way to get a general idea if a plant will survive in your area. However, other things like sun, shade, soil and moisture also play important roles; sometimes even more important.

Planting zones are only a guideline, but they are very useful. Local microclimates will also influence what you can grow. Slope of the land, elevation, large bodies of water, exposure and proximity of buildings, etc. can make areas warmer or cooler than the overall climate region.

Weeds

Pulling weeds is an effective and organic way to get rid of weeds, but it is also the most time-consuming process for killing off garden plant pests.

The good thing about pulling weeds by hand is that you know when you have pulled the weed out roots and all, it won’t be coming back. Spending a lot of time in your garden pulling weeds also helps you get to know your plants, so you can spot and control pests or other problems with your plants.

Other Organic Methods

If you don’t feel like pulling weeds but don’t want to use a lot of chemicals on your garden, there are some other options:

• Boiling water: It is said that pouring boiling water on weeds will kill the weeds as well as the seeds. Just be careful not to get any on you, or on the plants that you want to live!
• Mulch: Not only can mulch help prevent weeds from growing in the first place, mulching can smother and kill existing weeds. Two or three inches of mulch will eliminate weeds and help hold water in your garden.
• Soapy water: Another method is adding about five tablespoons of liquid dish soap to four cups of water. Mix it up, put it in a spray bottle and spray on the weeds, preferably on hot days.
• Alcohol spray: You can do the exact same thing with four cups of water and between one and five tablespoons of alcohol, depending on the stubbornness of the weeds.
• Vinegar: Undiluted vinegar is a great choice for killing weeds. Put it in a spray bottle and use on weeds, being careful not to spray your plants, because it can kill them, too.

If you’re looking for how to kill weeds before they sprout, try cornmeal gluten. It’s a great pre-emergent herbicide that also adds nitrogen to the soil. This is a particularly good choice for lawns because it won’t hurt the existing grass.

Pruning

We prune trees and shrubs for their health and for our aesthetic pleasure. Pruning will:

• Repair Damage. Broken limbs or stems are an invitation to pests and disease. When they are removed properly, the tree or shrub will be able to heal itself. Pruning for damage repair should be done as soon as possible after the injury occurs.
• Remove Nuisances. The forsythia grabs your hat every time you pass. The spirea blocks the living room windows. The oak casts so much shade that you can’t grow flowers or grass underneath it any more. When trees and shrubs become nuisances, it’s time to prune!
• Shape Growth. We shape trees and shrubs to create the most beautiful appearance in our gardens.
• Special Effects. Topiary, espalier, even bonsai . . . pruning is a technique used to create many special effects in the garden.

Pruning Tools'

Secateur

Hand secateurs are an essential tool for the gardener. They can have bypass blades, where both blades are sharp and work together like the scissor blades. They can also be anvil types, where one blade is sharp and the other has a flat surface.

Loppers

Loppers are large, long-handled secateurs used to cut larger branches. Many are constructed with a ratchet mechanism at the spot where the blades join. This lets the gardener open the blades further to accommodate large branches and also to exert more force.

Pruning Saw

Pruning saws are specially designed with large teeth to cut green wood efficiently. Never try to prune with a regular saw! Some pruning saws have a straight wooden handle, while others have a curved metal ‘crossbow’ handle.

Trees

Trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring, when the tree is dormant. The tree will heal the wound most rapidly at this time, because all its stored energy is available for the job.

Cutting out dead wood and diseased branches will make the tree healthier. Remove any crossed branches that are rubbing against each other and leaving a wound in the bark.

If you need more light under the tree, remove some of the lower branches. Remove any branch that blocks a path or causes a problem for people walking in the garden.

You can also make a tree more beautiful. Remove misshapen growth, thin out some branches to make the tree seem more graceful, or remove some top growth to encourage heavier blossoming. Follow the natural growth pattern of the tree for best results.

Always cut at the base of the branch, just outside the branch collar. That is the bulge where the branch merges with the tree. A cut just outside the branch collar will heal quickly. If you cut halfway down the branch, it will die back to the branch collar anyway, and the dying wood will invite diseases and pests.

To prune a large branch, make the first cut into the bottom of the branch. Then cut downward from the top of the branch until the branch is sawn through. If you start with the top cut, the bark below the branch may be torn away by the weight of the falling branch, leaving a large wound.

There is not need to seal the stump with paint or tar if you’ve cut just beyond the branch collar. Gardeners were once advised to apply sealer to the cut, but research has shown us that the tree will heal more quickly without it.

Shrubs

Shrubs are multi-stemmed woody plants, growing with many stems coming out of the ground in a group. In an old bush, there are likely to be many stems growing very close together. Often, some of the branches are dead. This makes an impenetrable – and intimidating – mess!

Always prune stems at ground level, cutting higher results in a badly-shaped, ugly shrub. Start by removing any dead, dying, or damaged stems. Often that is enough to make an overgrown shrub beautiful and healthy again.

If you choose to reduce the size of the shrub even further, remove the oldest branches next. Start at the center of the shrub. Not only are center stems usually the oldest, but removing them will let air and light into the center of the bush. That will make the shrub healthier and encourage flowering.

Don’t remove more than one-third of the stems in a single year. Pruning more heavily can cause stress for the shrub.

When to Prune?

When working with flowering shrubs, pruning should be timed to avoid interfering with the shrub’s blooming period.

Shrubs like lilacs and forsythia, which bloom in the spring, flower on old wood – that is, wood that the bush grew the previous summer. Cutting back these bushes in late winter will result in no flowers to enjoy that spring. Wait to prune these shrubs after they have bloomed. You can prune while the bush is in bloom if you want cut flowers for the house. Shrubs like bluebeard (Caryopteris), which flower in the late summer or early fall, bloom on new wood – that is, wood grown in the current season. If you cut these bushes back in late winter, you’ll encourage new growth and heavy flowering.