Basics
From Antivist
Contents |
Sowing
Sowings should be made at four different times. This is because of the effects of frost and because seasons vary, some being early, others late in opening. For the latter season, the time between the early sowings should be increased in an early spring and made about the time that the earliest trees, such as silver maple open their buds.
To take advantage of the cool fall weather, a second crop of cool-season vegetables may be grown.
Fall garden vegetables do not thrive in warm weather and too early planting will stunt some kinds and cause others to become coarse, woody, or pithy and unfit for use.
Cultivation
The function of cultivation with vegetables is to conserve moisture by eliminating weeds, to close up cracks and provide a loose, rough surface which will absorb rainfall and prevent runoff. Deep cultivation destroys many roots, reduces the yield of most vegetables and is unnecesary. Shallow surface cultivation is recommended for all vegetables, especially in un-irrigated soils and in dry seasons.
Mulching
Mulch is an application of manure, or any other loose material such as leaves spread upon the soil surface to protect the roots of newly planted trees, shrubs, tender plants. Today, it is extended to include earth kept loose by surface tillage to check evaporation.
You can use buckwheat hulls, shredded corn stover, chopped straw, or granulated peat moss. For mulching trees, and berry plants, coarser material may be used - marsh hay, straw, leaves, and corn stalks.
Also used is black paper spread upon the ground between or through which young plants may be grown. It sheds water into the soil, conserves water in the soil by checking evaporation, increases germination, greatly reduce or even eliminate weedings and cultivation, increase soil temperature, hasten maturity, increase yields, and produce larger high quality, and cleaner crops.
Paper should not be used on low value crops. It usually eliminates weeds in the covered area, and thus conserves the moisture and fertility they would use. It also cuts down the cost of cultivation.
Mulching gardens with straw or other litter such as hay or manure is a practical way to increase yields and produce vegetables of the best quality. The benefits are greatest with long-season crops and in dry years. Though straw mulches have increased the yields of nearly all vegetables, their use is not recommended with early short-season crops such as leaf lettuce, peas, spinach, seeded onions, cauliflower, and early cabbage. With root crops such as carrots, beets, and parsnips their use does not appear advantageous and with transplanted onions is of doubtful value. The difficulties of applying straw more than offset the advantage which most of these crops might gain. Straw mulching has been found desirable with all long season crops except sweet corn. Straw should not be applied until the plants are well established. A mulch of 2" to 4" is adequate. Deeper is unnecessary and undesirable.
Between 10 and 15 tons of straw are needed for mulching an acre, or about 500 pounds foro 2,000 square feet.
At the end of the season, straw mulches should be removed and burned because of the unfavorable effect upon the soil when such a large amount of dry organic matter is plowed under. This isi most serious with un-irrigated or sandy soils.
With potatoes, the straw mulch should be applied before the plants come through the soil. With other crops, such as tomatoes, eggplants, and other transplanted vegetables, before transplanting or after the plants are established, preferable at the latter time.
Irrigation
Irrigation will be found desirable at some time in practically every season and often in many seasons. Except for hastening seed germination in a dry spring, irrigation is seldom needed before July and not after August.
Needless or excessive irrigation early in the life of the plants might cause the development of shallow root systems. However, vegetables should be kept growing steadily. Knobby, growth-cracked, hollow, rough-shaped, double and otherwise undesirable vegetables are produced when growth is uneven, especially when a period of abundant moisture follos one of prolonged drouth.
One inch of water, in one rain, or from irrigation should maintain vigorous growth of most vegetables for five to seven days during hot weather, and 10 to 15 days in cooler weather.
Smaller amounts or larger amounts of water at one time are less desirable, because the soil will be poorly aerated for a time and the loss from rotting, blight, etc. will be increased.
Some form of overhead irrigation is applicable to every conceivable condition. It may be either stationary or portable, hand operated of self-operating, laid on or preferably raised above the surface to suit local conditions. Its first cost in any case is not much greater than an equivalent of hose and nozzles but it will last almost indefinitely, whereas hose usually must be replaced in two or three years.
The nozzle throws a stream 1/32" in diameter and the stream of water breaks fall about 40' away with no wind.
To irrigate vegetables and berries the best way is to place straight lines of pipe 50' to 70' or 80' apart depending upon the pressure and with nozzles at 4' intervals. They may be laid on the ground but will work better if raised.
When placed on the ground, they are easy to step over, when 6' high, are less likely than tall ones to be shifted by winds, more convenient and easily removed and replaced for plowing and digging.
For small gardens, one line may be made to serve by having it in readily portable sections. Each line may be connected with a hydrant by hose or have its permanant supply pipe with a gate valve and a turning union to control the water distribution. For convenience, however, a water motor is far better than a handle because the whole area will be sure to get an even distribution or water.
Overhead irrigation in some form has the great advantage over all other styles in its applicability to every type of soil, in every elevation, every size of garden or field. As the water is evenly distributed in minute drops it sinks slowly in the soil without puddling or baking and neither seeds nor plants are injured. Also the gentle shoers cleanse foliage and encourage healthful, vigorous development.
High temperature (90 degrees or above) which usually accompany summer droughts deplete the supply of soil moisture and increase the water requirements of plants.
The chief sources of water for irrigation are ponds, reservoirs, artesian wells and municipal water supplies. Shallow rooted crops, such as radishes and onions, usually require more frequent applications of water than do tomatoes or carrots.
Light and frequent watering is inadvisable; applications of less than 1/4" is considered enough for seed beds and young vegetables and from 1/2" to 1" for maturing crops.
As soon as the irrigation season ends the machinery should be overhauled, the pipes thoroughly drained before winter, and repairs made when necessary. Before starting in spring the pipes should be thoroughly flushed out to get rid of any loose rust particles. Repairs and overhauling should not cost more than ten dollars annually for a system of one to four or five acres. If properly handled, the engine and the pump should last for 12 to 15 years and the piping still longer.
The initial outlay for equipment, exclusive of motor and pump is estimated at $400. The equipment can be depreciated for tax purposes. The item of repairs is practically nil.
Temporary wilting such as affects plants on hot days, is not necessarily a symptom of moisture deficiency. Plants will recover from such wilting if sufficient water is in the soil. But if they remain flaccid until early morning. They indicate permanent wilting, so water should be applied promptly for if the wilting is allowed to continue the quality and succulence of the crop is likely to be seriously impaired and the yield greatly reduced.
If porous hose is preferred, the supply pipe is located at the higher end of the field and a pressure of 15 to 20 pounds to the square inch maintained in the porous lines. Old fire hose can serve as temporary water supply. Hose may run up hill. A better distribution may be secured by having it run down. Lengths of 600' have worked well. Especially when heavy weight canvas is used near the source and lighter at the distal and when the current is up grade and the reverse when it is down.
Hose may last up to three years, longer if treated with a solution of one gallon asphalt paint. 1/2 pint of kerosene and gasoline thoroughly stirred before applying either with a brush or by soaking and running through a clothes wringer to squeeze out the excess. It must be dried for 24 hours at least before using.
In use the hose is merely laid between the crop rows the water turned on until enough has been applied, then moved to the next place. Soil conditions and methods of tillage will decide the width of effective distribution.
Planting Zones
USDA planting zones are based on average minimum winter low temperatures determined by historical weather data. There are also heat zones which help determine how far south plants can be grown. Vegetables and annuals are planted by average frost dates, which are also mapped. The following link offers more information:
* USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map
Planting zones are the easiest way to get a general idea if a plant will survive in your area. However, other things like sun, shade, soil and moisture also play important roles; sometimes even more important.
Planting zones are only a guideline, but they are very useful. Local microclimates will also influence what you can grow. Slope of the land, elevation, large bodies of water, exposure and proximity of buildings, etc. can make areas warmer or cooler than the overall climate region.
Weeds
Pulling weeds is an effective and organic way to get rid of weeds, but it is also the most time-consuming process for killing off garden plant pests.
The good thing about pulling weeds by hand is that you know when you have pulled the weed out roots and all, it won’t be coming back. Spending a lot of time in your garden pulling weeds also helps you get to know your plants, so you can spot and control pests or other problems with your plants.
Other Organic Methods
If you don’t feel like pulling weeds but don’t want to use a lot of chemicals on your garden, there are some other options:
- Boiling water: It is said that pouring boiling water on weeds will kill the weeds as well as the seeds. Just be careful not to get any on you, or on the plants that you want to live!
- Mulch: Not only can mulch help prevent weeds from growing in the first place, mulching can smother and kill existing weeds. Two or three inches of mulch will eliminate weeds and help hold water in your garden.
- Soapy water: Another method is adding about five tablespoons of liquid dish soap to four cups of water. Mix it up, put it in a spray bottle and spray on the weeds, preferably on hot days.
- Alcohol spray: You can do the exact same thing with four cups of water and between one and five tablespoons of alcohol, depending on the stubbornness of the weeds.
- Vinegar: Undiluted vinegar is a great choice for killing weeds. Put it in a spray bottle and use on weeds, being careful not to spray your plants, because it can kill them, too.
If you’re looking for how to kill weeds before they sprout, try cornmeal gluten. It’s a great pre-emergent herbicide that also adds nitrogen to the soil. This is a particularly good choice for lawns because it won’t hurt the existing grass.
